A journey from New Zealand to Norway by two rookies in a 50 year old sailing boat

A journey from New Zealand to Norway by two rookies in a 50 year old sailing boat

fredag 7. mai 2010

Tunisia

Coming to Tunisia we had to - as usual - effect a number of urgent repairs. The most serious of which was re-replacing one of the wires of the rigging that we replaced in Malta. The new one (which in reality was a pretty old one that had been kicking around in the bottom of the boat for a while.) Didn't even last the trip over from Malta and had split in two or three places. Egil was dispatched up the mast to put the old one back. Now we're hoping everything will hold up until we reach home. ...which is getting pretty near now. Unbelievable! We have been sailing for more than a year now. The stars look familiar, we're on the right hemisphere, our clocks are set to the right timezone, the weather is cold and we've stopped provisioning "as much as possible" whenever we find something cheap. In maybe as little as a month we can be in Norway, and by the beginning of August back home by the border to Russia.
Whoa, whoa! That doesn't have anything to do with Tunisia, does it? I digress!

Finished with our repairs we got drunk, visited the most dodgy pub since Ivalo-Hotelli and Sevettin Baari combined, and despatched the TV-celebrity Erlend back to Norway as all the attention and groupies he kept drawing got too much for us, modest, quiet and shy as we are.
Then it was time for some sightseeing. Because of the weather we couldn't move anyway, so we bussed over to Tunis and Carthage/Karthago to check out the city. Egil also needed some new shoes to replace his old ones, bought in Egypt. These had disappeared mysteriously, possibly due to extreme ugliness. After having haggled the price down to less than a quarter of the starting price the salesman found it essential to call Egil "Ali Baba" as he handed him his change. Egil thought it necessary to reply by "No, YOU're Ali Baba!" Those who are in the know, know....In Carthage we checked out some really old bricks. Apparantly made by some rumanians, bad job it seems anyway, since it's all falling apart. After seeing all this and having mangled and abused the french language as much as our rusty high-school french allowed us, we returned to the boat.Back in Bizerte, oh, yes, that's were we kept the boat, we had to wait a couple of more days for the weather to be tolerable. While we were gone a storm had passed and filled the boat with gravel, sand and dust that didn't go away until yesterday when a weatherfront passed us with crazy winds in the face and water all over the boat. Now it's back to no-wind again, and it seems like we'll stop over a day in Algeria. The Med sucks for sailing.

Dyrevenn

Tripping with Erlend, the Animal Friend.The pictures from Malta to Tunisia by way of an unscheduled stopover in Italy.






onsdag 21. april 2010

Impulsive visit to Italy

- Hey, have you guys seen there's an island here?
- Wow, who owns it?
- "Isola de la Pantelleria", sounds Italian to me....
- Italy anyone?
- They sell beer in Italy don't they...?

And so it went, other than that we're back in Africa, in Tunisia, seems like a great place. The trip has been pretty miserable with contrary winds and no more LPG for the last couple of days (noodles definitely taste better with water) and our rigging is falling apart again. But one day into our Tunisian stay most of those issues are already resolved. Wooohooo!

onsdag 14. april 2010

Going to Malta for more hammering

Leaving Crete in ruins we swapped Alex, who had to go back to work, for Egil's brother Martin who had to be back for his studies at some point. Deadlines, deadlines... In short we made it with a day or two to spare, having had all kinds of winds. On the way we finally managed to rip the old jib to shreds and show off some dolphins. Always great fun for the kids, the dolphins. In Malta we discovered two things; first of all Egil's cousin Ole were arriving with a crew from his work, not to join us, but to do what Norwegians normally do abroad. We promptly joined. Secondly and far less important, we discovered that two of the wires in our rigging had taken such a beating going to Crete that they were coming apart and had to be replaced. That done we returned to the bars, basking in our norwegianness. Now we're nursing a four-day hangover, waiting for Erlend, the dyrevenn, so we can leave this place and go to Tunisia. (Unless we change our minds enroute and go somewhere else.)

Pessblaut gets hammered in various ways

Loads of cruisers go through the Suez Canal. Not many people bother to mention much about it in their blogs. For a reason. Loads of desert, a few military outposts and some big boats. Impressive work by those who dug that ditch almost 150 years ago, takes two days to pass, 'nuff said. For us the Canal brought some change in crew; not only did we have on board the essential pilot who showed us which way to pass through the canal (doh...), we had also expeditioned over to Cario to pick up Alex. A couple of days spent in Cairo, the guys together for the first time in a couple of years.
Leaving Suez and Egypt behind (damn we'll miss all the people trying to rip you off and the concept of bakshees) we had a couple of deadlines to catch. First of all Egils family were waiting in Crete, secondly Alex had to be back at work at some point. This idea of "getting back to work" requires certain fascilities, such as airports. These are normally found on land, complicating our schedule ever so slightly. So entering the Mediterranean and celebrating with water mixed about 60/40 into a drink called "Vodka", served in a convenient shot-glass, we discovered that in the Med most winds are generated by-, and therefore blowing directly from Crete. Alex got himself a rude awakening as to what blue ocean cruising can be all about, hammering up against the wind blowing a constant 15 to 20 knots from right where you wanna go, but being a good sport he later claimed to have had fun. (Reportedly apart from the first couple of days spent in utter misery and seasickness.)
We also discovered that despite the fact that The Mediterranean = Syden, it is freezing cold! We have actually been forced to use clothes. Quite a bit of clothes really. Things have just got colder since the Maldives, but this is outrageous. Øyvind have actually been force to use pants for the first time in 15 months, and has had to abandon his idea of making it home all the way in shorts. To cut the story short, we made it to Crete three days before the Larsen-family's easter holiday where up, but not before Crete had generated a final full gale to be served in our faces on the final approach. Using about every trick in our little book we just made it into harbour, not the marina we intended to go into, but a wharf smack in the middle of town. There Egil's family met up with a crew carrying their best "what? weather? storm? where?"-look.

torsdag 11. mars 2010

The Red Sea Welcomes New Visitors!

It was too good to last! We just left Pt. Ghalib two hours ago. We cleared into Egypt there and spent two nights of precious, uninterrupted sleep on a non-moving platform. ...as well as internet, cold beer and restaurants. All good despite being your worst touristy nightmare. BUT as we left we were actually able to sail away. Going with our 51 year old light-wind genoa and mainsail, doing 4,5 knåtts. THAT was too good to last! We just turned on the engine again.

Again is the keyword here. Not because we've been turning on the engine a lot lately. No-no-no-no-no-no! We pretty much turned it on in Eritrea and switched it off here in Egypt. To those of you whose geography is not too strong: There's a pret-ty big country in between there called "Sudan".

All right, that might not be totalally true, but almost. There's anyway no point of letting the truth get in the way of a good story. Here's what happened lately:
First of all we left Yemen embarking on that final 24 hour passage that would take us to safety past pirate-waters and into the Red Sea. We said goodbye to Rad, an awesome 80-something Indian professor-type who stayed there at the time in his self-built revolutionary katamaran, spoke fluent Swedish and had a perfect understanding of Norwegian after having lived in Sweden for three years FIFTY YEARS AGO!!!! Thanks for all the great meals and the drinks Rad!

About 24 hours after leaving Aden and Yemen behind we entered through Bab-El-Mandeb, the Gates of Lament, Tåreporten, whatever you wanna call it. This is literally the gate to the Red Sea, a little gate where Africa and Asia almost meet, narrowing the gap down to just a few miles across. This place is infamous for producing crazy southerly winds at this time of year. If it blows

20 knots elsewhere it normally blows 40 in the Bab. We were therefore expecting 45. It didn't come. We cruised through and caught our first glimpse of Africa in relatively calm seas and agreeable winds. "Awesome" we thought to ourselves. Two hours later we were still thinking "awesome" but in a totally different way.

The wind picked up after we went through Bab El Mandeb, and was soon going up to 40 knots, and the waves where "awesome", just in a not-overly-positive way. We soon took a massive broach when one wave from behind picked the boat up and sent her on a speed-trip only to have number two and possibly number three increase that speed until we were surfing down the face of wave numero tres. Unfortunately the windvane was steering at the time so Egil were not able to correct the broach soon enough. I was below decks making dinner, definitely not contributing positively to the effort. As the water started flowing faster and faster past the open galley-window - and as the boat leaned over; coming closer and closer, I was convinced we would be knocked down and dip the mast into the seas. Egil was thinking the same in the cockpit. Luckily it didn't happen. We were both sure we would anyway come upright again, the question would be how many hundreds of liters of seawater would have time to enter through the open window and the companionway. We never found out. The guy who sold us Liberty said she didn't surf. We can now tell him that in the Red Sea she does! Awesome!

Next stop were Eritrea.
We cleared in in Massawa, great place, but expensive to stay.
We didn't want to spend 15USD pr day staying there, and getting visas to travel overland proved a lengthy and tiresome exercise, so the planned trip to Asmara and inland Eritrea didn't happen.
After Massawa we cruised over to some small islands to fish, swim and freedive. Still with Thira. In the evening we cruised over to a small village and had a look at some old Italian gun-emplacements that materialized there. That little history-lesson over we joined the villagers on the beach, they provided some firewood and we grilled our fish and we all shared a meal, eating with our hands, communicating through the only two guys in the village who spoke a little English. Later they showed us around in the village, and late in the evening we set sail again. Go north young man!
And this is about where all the "fun" began.
Red Sea factbox: Going up or down the Red Sea you WILL have the wind and current in your back half the way. Depending on the year and which way you're going this might be in the beginning or the end of the trip. The observant reader might already have gathered from the above that going north in the beginning of March you have the wind and current with you in the beginning. ...then you start motoring.

OK, in short we have motorsailed hard on the wind ever since. ....Whenever the contrary winds have not been too rough to go at all. Then we have been anchored in one of the many "marsa"s - small sheltered bays, or behind a reef somewhere out there. The waves in the Red Sea picks up fast and have tremendous boat-stopping qualities about them. This in combination with contrary currents made it impossible for us to go with sails only. We would still be in Eritrea. We have already with the engine spent plenty of time doing around 3-3,5 knots. As if that is not sad enough that would be on a tack about 60 degrees off the desired course, so that we would actually just make 1,5-2 knots towards our target.

But we made it anyway, and even had the chance to stop and freedive and hook up with Cedric and Mike on Thira a couple of times. Sadly the only Sudanese soil we ever tread on was underwater, but hey, that counts doesn't it?

When we finally made it to Pt. Ghalib we met not only Thira, but three other boats that we met on the Maldives. Some of them have met in the Pacific already - some as far back as South America - and kept bumping into each other ever since. Good times, good drinks.
Allright, now we're making our way up towards the Suez Canal. We have a weather window of a couple of days now where there is little or no wind, sometimes even with a southerly component, so we're making use of it. ...to motor in relative comfort.... But; sailing out from Pt. Ghalib, with the wind almost straight from the side? Of course it couldn't last!


PS: Egil may now, after visiting Africa, and having had his crazy two-guys-one-moped-let's-start-in-LA-and-end-up-in-Buenos-Aires-trip (mopeddagboken.blogspot.com), be congratulated with visiting all six continents. And that in the space of a year-and-a-half!
PPS: We're having a discussion whether or not Antarctica is a continent to be included. Of course I mean that it is and that there is therefore no reason to congratulate him on anything whatsoever!

An illustrated (if nothing else) Travelogue to Aden








Seeing the place, chewing khat, smoking shisha.
We shall return! (Ins' Allah!)