A journey from New Zealand to Norway by two rookies in a 50 year old sailing boat

A journey from New Zealand to Norway by two rookies in a 50 year old sailing boat

onsdag 26. mai 2010

Taste of the Atlantic and Meet the Portuguese

Having left Gibraltar on a decent weatherwindow we gunned it up the Algarve-coast until we hit gale-force head-on winds whereupon we immediately found shelter in the marina of the small town Barbate, right before Cape Trafalgar. We checked in at the office and paid our bill, promising to bring over our forgotten, yet non-existing insurance-papers in the afternoon.
Thirty hours later we hit the Atlantic again, enjoying a series of high-pressures over most of south-west Europe, and a few days later we could finally anchor in Portugal having sailed most of the way. A relief after having had one (1) day without motoring for a month-and-a-half through the mediterranean. Our mission in Cascais, Portugal was 1: Wait for Martin to come join our jolly cruise. 2: Nothing. Acomplishing objective 2 shortly after arriving we settled down to wait a day for Martin. However the waiting was interrupted by a visit by The Jolly Portuguese Fellas. The Jolly Portuguese Fellas had taken their sailboat a half-miles way out of the marina and where motoring up and down the beach enjoying beverages previously aquired by a volunteer Portuguese Fella swimming ashore to buy a sackful of said goods at the closest bar and swimming back. Jolly Portuguese fellas normally don't carry a dinghy since the boat spends its time tied up in a marina or motoring back and forth right outside the playa.
Now The Jolly Portuguese Fellas were getting hungry and wanted to send for some marinated snails. Since the swimmability of marinated snails and other tapas are rather limited and the volunteer Fella no longer volunteered they wanted to borrow our dinghy. No worries. Thirty minutes later they returned with dinghy, beer, wine and snails, promptly tied up alongside us and commenced stuffing their shoppings down us. After running out of beer and wine we managed to cough up a bottle of our best vodka so the get-together could go on. The Pessblaut-boys sincerely enjoyed this little gathering with the Portuguese General Manager of one of the largest internet-poker companies worldwide, the unofficial "King" of the local marina, the most expensive one in Portugal, and some "special police"-guy with a look that would scare the Hulk green in broad daylight. Hold on; the Hulk IS green?! They've probably already met...
The party took a turn for mainland, and ended up with Yours Trulies being showered with drinks in the local bars (after having had the doorman clear away some people from our desired table), according to a somewhat patchy memory. Probably lots of fun. Somehow Øyvind must have felt the urge to refinance his funds towards the end of the night, since he asked some of the guys if they knew of a place a guy could "fight for cash". He was promptly directed to some obscure garage-building by the seedy part of the waterfront. Somehow either his bravery, bravado or breadwinning desires disappeared at some point and he woke up the next morning with an intact face, yet penniless. Next evening we dodged the Fellas, hoping to be able to receive Martin and remember it. We managed, and were pleased to discover his lack of tan as we have previously been unpleasantly surprised by our guests being more tanned than us. Anyway, he'll probably rectify that in the couple of weeks he'll spend with us. Wellwell, next day, the 21.st of May we took off up the coast, and that's what we're doing as of now: taking off up the coast. We'll stop somewhere before the infamous Bay of Biscay to check the weather and post this rubbish. So, catch ya'll later!

onsdag 12. mai 2010

Coming, staying and leaving Gibraltar!

Ok, so we´ve arrived in the Gib, right in between the Mediterranean and the Atlantic, a couple of nights ago. We´ve spent the time doing intensive repairwork and have managed to get made and replace two new wires in the rig, make our lights in the mast work again (we were receiving complaints from the commercial traffic on our VHF that we cannot respond with when we were running around at night with no lights, wonder why...), changed oil, filled diesel and not succeded in repairing our VHFs. All in a two days and squeezed in between socializing with the other cruisers in the anchorage. And now, in a couple of hours we´ll be "home" in the Atlantic!!!!! Finally, it´s been almost two years since we saw it the last time!

fredag 7. mai 2010

Emergency shelter at Costa Del Sol

Oksy-gebroksky: We left Tunisia with moderate wind in our faces, engine running so we could make some progress and just maybe reach Gibraltar before the next storm would hit. HAHAHA

So, we've spent one (half) night sailing without the engine running, the rest has been spent motoring in dead calmsOr beating up against the windSomeone told us that Algeria was a sweet spot to hang out, the trick was apparantly to get yourself arrested in the right place. Sidi Ferruch was such a place, and since we were going close by anyhow, we decided to give it a go. Unfortunately they just gave us plenty of polite hassle, told us the harbour was to shallow to enter and sent us packing after 20 minutes. A brief, brief visit to Algeria....
Unfortunately the polite Algerians sent us packing straight into an approaching weatherfront that had us fighting for the best part of one day. Our windmeter maxed out on 60 knots, but it's broken. However we know it shows approximately twice as much as it actually blows, so it was blowing somewhere over 30 knots for the whole day. Interesting sensation when the front passed, tried to drown us in rain and then started blowing 30 knots from the opposite direction. One hour later the (big-big-big) waves started coming from not one but all directions, and 20 minutes after that it just stopped blowing, leaving us bobbing uselessly and helplessly around in swells from aaaaaaaaaaalllll directions. Ahhh, the joy...
I just checked my nag-list, and it appears I forgot to nag about currents. Appearantly the currents are all against us. We spent 60 hours covering 100 miles out from Sidi Ferruch. 100 miles is normally an ok 24 hrs run...
All in all we've been moving agonizingly slow. Howevever we hoped to reach Gibraltar by the beginning of the next big blow. We're 100 miles away now, and according to the forecast we should be able to make it. Just. Unfortunately the in-the-face-winds started blowing hard again this morning. We quickly decided for the first time actually double back and then zoomed downwind for about ten miles and ended up here: Adra, on Costa del Sol. Now, maybe we will have time to do some crucial repairs, god knows its needed. Actually we could make a whole blogpost about everything that's broken on board. We just want to patch everything up good enough to make it home. ...preferably in one - or at least not too many - piece(s).

Middelhavet

Middelhavet skal du få billig av meg ass! Middelhavet gis bort til høystbydende. Siden vi kom inn i dette middelse havet (en helt feil betegnelse spør du meg, det rangerer godt under middels sier to av to seilere spurt i en fersk undersøkelse) for over en måned siden har vi kanskje hatt tre (3!) dager der vi ikke har kjørt motor. Av de dagene det faktisk har blåst har det blåst midt i trynet, uansett hvilken kurs vi har hatt de aktuelle dagene. Ikke helt sant egentlig, én dag blåste det bakfra. Nesten rettt bakfra, ikke helt, sånn at vi kunne gå med doble forseil, neida, bare nesten rett bakfra. Vår nest verste vindretning.

I tillegg er det kaldt!

Tunisia

Coming to Tunisia we had to - as usual - effect a number of urgent repairs. The most serious of which was re-replacing one of the wires of the rigging that we replaced in Malta. The new one (which in reality was a pretty old one that had been kicking around in the bottom of the boat for a while.) Didn't even last the trip over from Malta and had split in two or three places. Egil was dispatched up the mast to put the old one back. Now we're hoping everything will hold up until we reach home. ...which is getting pretty near now. Unbelievable! We have been sailing for more than a year now. The stars look familiar, we're on the right hemisphere, our clocks are set to the right timezone, the weather is cold and we've stopped provisioning "as much as possible" whenever we find something cheap. In maybe as little as a month we can be in Norway, and by the beginning of August back home by the border to Russia.
Whoa, whoa! That doesn't have anything to do with Tunisia, does it? I digress!

Finished with our repairs we got drunk, visited the most dodgy pub since Ivalo-Hotelli and Sevettin Baari combined, and despatched the TV-celebrity Erlend back to Norway as all the attention and groupies he kept drawing got too much for us, modest, quiet and shy as we are.
Then it was time for some sightseeing. Because of the weather we couldn't move anyway, so we bussed over to Tunis and Carthage/Karthago to check out the city. Egil also needed some new shoes to replace his old ones, bought in Egypt. These had disappeared mysteriously, possibly due to extreme ugliness. After having haggled the price down to less than a quarter of the starting price the salesman found it essential to call Egil "Ali Baba" as he handed him his change. Egil thought it necessary to reply by "No, YOU're Ali Baba!" Those who are in the know, know....In Carthage we checked out some really old bricks. Apparantly made by some rumanians, bad job it seems anyway, since it's all falling apart. After seeing all this and having mangled and abused the french language as much as our rusty high-school french allowed us, we returned to the boat.Back in Bizerte, oh, yes, that's were we kept the boat, we had to wait a couple of more days for the weather to be tolerable. While we were gone a storm had passed and filled the boat with gravel, sand and dust that didn't go away until yesterday when a weatherfront passed us with crazy winds in the face and water all over the boat. Now it's back to no-wind again, and it seems like we'll stop over a day in Algeria. The Med sucks for sailing.

Dyrevenn

Tripping with Erlend, the Animal Friend.The pictures from Malta to Tunisia by way of an unscheduled stopover in Italy.